![]() Debit cards may show a hold on funds for a short period of time. A pre-auction authorization will be performed to establish available credit. Your credit card will be charged for the following: Your Purchases, Buyer's Premiums, Shipping and Handling Fees, Lot Fees and any applicable taxes. What you get in a store or pharmacy is 70 weight (about like water) I use 250,350,500 and even 600 at times depending on temperature and drying conditions.Internet Premium : 18% Participation Requirements: Valid Credit Card required for bidding approval Payment Options: Visa, MasterCard, and Wire Transfer Visa MasterCard Payment Instructions: All accounts must be settled at the conclusion of the auction. The mineral oil replaces the sap then I can control the drying time. A bowl that starts off as 15″ wide x 4 3/4″ deep – will lose 3/4 inch of width and 3/16 to a quarter inch of depth. I don’t sell bowls that crack in the rims – I bust them and they go in the firewood. You do what you want – but after all I go thru making these bowls I’m going for the nearest thing to 100% certain it ain’t gonna crack except for where I want it to (I like limb knots to crack) and can be easily fixed. Some folks put them in paper bags, some cover them with sawdust. A bowl made today will crack before tomorrow if not treated. I’ve had folks ask me, “why do you put oil on it to dry it out?” I work my bowls “green” – you have to with hand tools, and the sap comes out quick. This picture was taken 2 minutes after the previous one and the only difference is the addition of “Mineral Oil”. Any roughness at all will be harder to thoroughly clean and folks this day are so worried about germs you got to try and think of everything. Also the smoother you get the bowl – the easier it will be to get it clean. If you leave it rougher (let’s say 80 grit) some of the grain doesn’t cut clean – lays down instead, and as it dries it makes the bowl look “fuzzy”. ![]() ![]() ![]() Getting it extremely smooth serves two purposes. After chipping out the bowl I sand it with 40 grit paper (inside and out) until all tool marks are removed, then follow that with 80, 120, and 220 grit. I try to think of everything I can to make it the best bowl that it can be. If you do this right the sides will flow into the bottom and this gentle curve greatly improves the usability of the bowl and helps the wrists of those using the bowl (especially for kneeding). Use your thumb and index finger as your depth gauges and be sure to BLEND the sides of the bowl into the bottom. Working in ever widening circles always helps me to keep the bowl the correct shape. This is the inside after you have removed all the wood. Now with that being said - Here is the “step by step” – the way that I make a bowl. So – As the TV shows always say, “Please don’t try this at home”. It is hard – strenuous work and you are always just one “bad swing” away from destroying many hours of hard work or the possibility of severe personal injury. But I would add to this – the fact that I have performed my craft before millions of people, both on TV and the live crowds during my 10 years as a paid demonstrator at the NC State Fair – showing how it is done, but only had a couple of dozen who have actually tried the craft themselves after being shown (that I know of). Getting tired while swinging a sharp tool is an easy way to drop the tool and experience severe cuts – don’t ask me how I know ! This alone should discourage most folks from trying it. So before I go any further let me post the following disclaimer/warning: Making a handmade wooden bowl is a process that uses extremely sharp tools for extended periods of time that could easily be from 6 hours to 12 or more hours. I know of no book or magazine that shows this process, and due to the good possibility of a serious accident that could easily result in severe injury – it may be a liability issue. I often have folks asking where they can see a “step by step” directive of how to make a handmade wooden bowl.
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